PASIG FERRY-Valenzuela: A Trip to the Other Side of Makati
Lex Reyes / March 23, 2011 / 0 comment | = Click on the star if it's the place you want to see or recommend
Docking at Valenzuela Ferry Station appears like a station servicing only those living in the neighborhood—a quiet side of Makati of mostly low-rise residential buildings and houses. It is the unvisited area by non-locals, often brushed off and more often than not, only used during rush hour as an alternative route out of the congested streets of the Central Business District. On the surface, a trip to the area may not yield much but unexpectedly, it actually offers the opposite. You’d be pleasantly surprised to find a little bit of Czech, a dose of Italian and a bucketful of Filipino.
Care for some Czech beer?
Once you get down the station, head out of Bonifacio Street (there’s only one way out) to Osmeña Street, then proceed to the corner of Osmeña Street and Taguig Street (first corner to your left from Bonifacio Street) where tricycles are waiting. From there, ask one of the tricycle drivers to bring you to Grappa’s Ristorante (Angono Street corner J. P. Rizal Street, opposite Makati City Hall, Php 15/person), an Italian restaurant that aside from their Italian fare, serves Czech beer made from their microbrewery. It’s a perfect alternative for anyone wanting to try something else than the widely distributed local beers typically offered in other restaurants. Order a liter of Weizen (Php 150 or USD 3) for starters, a beer that has hints of banana and a less bitter taste that would appeal to a wide range of people. If beer is not your thing, you can try their pastas (Penne Arabiatta or quill shaped pasta with hot crushed pepper, garlic and onion in tomato sauce, Php 250 or USD 5) or pizzas (Pizza Al Salmone Affumicato or pizza with smoked salmon, onions and capers, Php 450 or USD 9).
A Walk Along Reposo
For an alternative to Grappa’s Ristorante, head on over to Nicanor Garcia Street (formerly Reposo Street, Php 15/person by tricycle from the corner of Osmeña Street and Taguig Street and Php 20/person by tricycle from Grappa’s), a tree-lined and colorful stretch of Makati for some more Italian food, architecture, art galleries and designer furniture. This formerly run-down street got its rebirth with the opening of the showroom of one of the Philippines’ renowned furniture designers, Budji Layug, in 1997. From then on, other furniture shops followed suit and a whole gamut of art related shops and restaurants started mushrooming in the area.
To have a whole experience of the area, start with one end of the stretch by asking the tricycle driver to drop you off at The Church of St. Andrews the Apostle (Kalayaan Avenue corner Nicanor Garcia Street), a spiritual edifice designed by one of the Philippines’ national artists, Architect Leandro Locsin and built in 1968. Having a quick tour of the building reveals an architectural style associated with the aforementioned architect—an extensive use of concrete and attempts to use this material in a fluid and sweeping manner. The church has a lot of curves, giving shape to a teepee like structure—granting the material an airy and light perspective, and considered to be a revolution in the 1960s. Further, the cross at the altar was made by Vicente Manansala, another national artist whose work focused on cubist leanings.
Manila’s design enclave
After the tour of the church, head on by foot to LRI Design Plaza (210 Nicanor Garcia Street, away from Kalayaan Avenue and towards Jupiter Street) for a peek of one of Manila’s design enclaves. The conglomeration of establishments was started out by Luzon Rattan Inc. (hence the name LRI) as a showcase of Philippine furniture at it’s best. With the downturn in the economy, it has evolved to something broader inclusive of different aspects of design. Notable shops include Luzon Rattan Inc. (ingenious and extensive use of rattan weaves in their furniture), Kish (handpicked furniture from the travels of Ito Kish), Heima (colorful and happy furniture with Mies van der Rohe lounge chair eclectically designed) and OMO (contemporary Asian furniture). The other shops are also worth a look. One reminder, be sure not to let other people notice that you’re drooling when looking around. I keep myself in check every time I head over to this place. If you’ve gotten some hunger pangs again after going through three floors of most things design, head on over to the second floor to The Room Upstairs. It’s a furniture/coffee shop where you dine amidst vintage designer furniture. Try their spaghetti meatballs or one of their paninis (around Php 200 each or USD 4) and think that this is your dining and living areas for one afternoon.
Be a glutton for Italian food
Perhaps because it complements really well with fine furniture, Italian food has sprouted in the stretch of Nicanor Garcia Street. Aside from The Room Upstairs, there’s also Caffe Caruso (Php 1000 per meal or USD 20) and Rico Renzo Galleries and Caffe (Php 450 per meal or USD 9) in the same building and L’Incontro Ristorante Italiano (Php 500 per meal or USD 10) just across the street (207 Nicanor Garcia Street). All of these restaurants each have their own flavor of romance and the element that unifies them is an aroma that emanates good food. If you like restaurant hopping, you can have appetizers in one, the main course in the restaurant beside, dessert in the other and a glass of wine in the last. It’s an excuse to walk of those not so unwanted calories by traversing one restaurant to the next. It’s a good way to end a trip to this area.
Spend a leisurely trip around the area of the Valenzuela Ferry Station and you will not be disappointed. What may come off initially as a quiet neighborhood eventually ends up as something vibrant. Spend a day in this part of town and experience art, design and gastronomic delight.
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"Lex Reyes sometimes gets lost in translation, but more often gets lost in transit. He likes the opportunity to wander off -- to observe, converse with strangers and gain a new perspective. He likes to take it all in, a hungry man with an appetite for both the surprising & the ordinary and distills his thoughts on paper after a couple of servings or so."
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