Visita Iglesia Destinations
Cookie Posadas / April 18, 2011 / 0 comment | = Click on the star if it's the place you want to see or recommend
Whenever I travel, I find myself (to the dismay of my friends) gravitating towards the oldest churches in the area. So you can’t begin to imagine how delighted I was when I was asked to pick the top five Visita Iglesia destinations in the country.
Visita Iglesia (Church Visit) is an ancient Roman tradition where pilgrims visit seven basilicas as penance. In the Philippine setting, the visit of seven churches each Maundy Thursday is expanded to include the Stations of the Cross. Traditionally, two stations are contemplated per church, but more enthusiastic ones though complete the stations at each church. It’s such a popular tradition that the Catholic Bishops’ Conference of the Philippines even created an online version.
The problem I faced with was which ones were the absolute must-see churches in the country. Cutting down the list to five was a challenge in itself. But I decided that if there were only five that you can see, they would have to be churches where you can go to not only to contemplate the Stations of the Cross, but the history and grandeur which surround the structure as well.
1. Paoay Church, Ilocos Norte
The Saint Agustine Church in Paoay, Ilocos Norte was built in 1704. It is commonly known as the Paoay Church and is by far one of the most famous churches in the Philippines. Being a part of the four Baroque Churches in the Philippines in the UNESCO World Heritage List, who then can contest its fame and importance? The church is a great example of “Earthquake Baroque” with its Eastern interpretation of European Baroque architecture. The weather-beaten buttresses not only fortify the massive coral stone and brick structure but also give off the illusion of a pyramidal Asian temple as well, making it one of the most photogenic churches in the country. It may lack the intricate details other churches are known for, but this is made up for by its understated old-world charm. The bell tower of the church, which is made of coral, stands stoically a few meters away and was used by revolutionaries as an observation post. The interiors of the church are bare, save for the always astounding baldozas mosaicos (mosaic tiles) and gilded altar.
2. Baclayon Church, Bohol
Each time I enter the Baclayon Church, I have to stand in silence for a moment or two. Built during the 1700s, the church has been around for such a long time that walking through its doors is like walking into the past. From outside, the church is a non-descript rectangular structure with only a cross and bell tower as its distinguishing features. But the inside is a different story. The Baclayon Church is, for me, an enchanting church; its interiors are eerily lit as the warm rainbow colored light streaming in from the stained glass windows make the interiors glow. Only the pulpit and altar are gilded, while the walls and floor maintain the unassuming theme of the exteriors.
To the right of the church is the convent that has now been turned into a museum holding religious relics from the time whence the church came. It’s a highly engaging display, something that I enjoyed thoroughly. The floor is rickety though, so watch where you step lest you be unfortunate enough to walk through one of the planks of the old wooden floor.
By far, a must-have for all Visita Iglesia lists is the San Agustin Church, if not for its historical significance, then for its spectacular interiors. The church has been an eyewitness to the chaotic history of the Philippines, having been a venue of historic events and surviving the 1945 Battle of Manila. Today, the church is a favorite venue of weddings while the courtyard at the back is a favorite of alfresco receptions.
From the outside, the church is modest, save for its elaborately carved wooden doors. The interiors are its polar opposite, being a much grander affair with crystal chandeliers hanging from the trompe l’oeil ceiling and large slabs of marble lining the full length of the floor area. The altar is a lavish spread of marble and gold trimmings and a finely crafted statue as the piece de resistance.
To the right of the church’s carved wooden doors is the entrance to the museum, a good place to visit after your penitential rounds. Inside the museum are Catholic relics from times long forgotten, indeed a treat for any history lover.
4. Taal Basilica, Batangas
The Basilica de San Martin de Tours in Taal, Batangas is reputed to be the largest basilica in Asia. It stands atop a hill where since the mid-1700s, the structure has stood watch over the town of Taal. The exteriors of the basilica are simple, except for the mixture of massive Ionic and Corinthian-style columns. On the other hand, the interiors are brightly painted with golden accents and low hanging chandeliers. Along the sides of the church are the foundations which have been made to look like Grecian columns. The altar boasts of six columns supporting a domed roof that is topped off by an image of the All Seeing Eye watching over the churchgoers and looks up to the trompe l’oleil style ceiling.
Walking through the massive doorway of the Basilica is a humbling experience that should not be missed. Be warned though, the community that frequents the Basilica are conservative and would highly prefer guests to be dressed appropriately when they visit.
5. San Sebastian Basilica, Manila
Among the different and equally interesting churches in Metro Manila, the Basilica Minore de San Sebastian made it to the list because of its architectural significance. Built in XXX, the church is hidden within the congested recesses of Manila. The basilica stands stoically as an architectural marvel and is the only Gothic style church in Asia. It was built with metal that was imported from Belguim, a material that will not seem so peculiar if we consider that fact that the church was designed by Alexander Guatve Eiffel, the brains behind the Eiffel Tower.
Today, the church is slowly deteriorating, with streaks of rust staining the exterior walls. A movement now calls for the restoration of the church which has witnessed twelve decades of the country’s history. In spite of its impending decay, the interiors of the church are impressive with slender columns holding up the ceiling with exaggerated arches. The opulent interiors are capped with a gilded altar and low dropping chandeliers that bring light into the otherwise dimly lit hall.
I guess it’s needless to say that this is a mere sample of the old and interesting churches that the country has to offer. Go on and troop to your church of choice, the point of the Visita Iglesia is to repent after all. But if we can enjoy the road trip and savor the history and architecture, well, then why not?
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Cookie Posadas
"Cookie loves traveling to immerse herself in the culture. And having minored in History, she especially enjoys historic sites and old churches. But most of all, she loves to eat the food! Cookie has done a lot of things since she graduated, but none of them seem to have struck her fancy more than travel writing. Friends say it’s her passion, and she seems to agree. Because Cookie learned to write travel pieces on her own, she has yet to find her real voice. But travel writing is something she’s sure she’ll be doing for a very long time."













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